#LFW2017: Mughal Influences Defined Tarun Tahiliani’s Showcase On Day 4
Tarun Tahiliani doesn’t need international trends to dictate his moodboard. Instead, he banks on his enviable resume spanning detailed research in drapes and crafts, a fat roster of celebrity clients and loyal patrons. This collection represented the refinement of many of Tarun’s bestsellers in updated drape styles in lightweight materials.
Chasme Shahi contemplated on the importance of pared-down day dressing showcased via cool and casual outfits. The new summer shapes were defined by renewed, lighter versions of jewel-toned kalidar lehenga-skirts teamed with high-collar tailored shirts, kurtas, and concept sarees befitting summer weddings, matching steps with easy separates, including scarves, waistcoats, floral dresses with cape details, and monotone tunics with attached wispy dupattas. A Mughal summer remained at the heart of the collection, with inspired ideas from Mughal architecture and gardens conveyed through zardozi and gara embroidery work as well as screen-printed patterns.
Most designers chase a cause, or an expression, or a highbrow concept. But Saviojon Fernandes works off a fringed bunch of feelings that are tied to women’s daily lives and manipulating mindsets of extreme femininity to precise effect.
The Goa designer returned to the Lakmé Fashion Week calendar after a decade-long hiatus to remind us that pretty clothes could be eccentrically elegant as well. For example, he took a simple idea of wrapped shirt around a waist, and turned it into range of delectable summer dresses. Or his investigations into the staid shirt style, which led to fresher adaptations, including relocating the collar detail to sit on the shoulder of dresses as embellishments, and back-to-front shirt-dresses. Or re-energising humble hotel slippers by adding shine and sparkle.
Inspired by his travel journals, Saviojon combined precious finds from flea markets in Brussels, London’s Portobello, and Mumbai’s Chor Bazaar with an assortment of Madras checks, African wax and raffia prints to realise his resort 2017 collection.
Two continents converged in a workshop in Kolkata. Nupur Kanoi masterminded a design interaction between Africa and India to create the Lost And Found In Africa collection. A contained riot of glass beadwork in poppy hues of red and blue, knotty bandhini craft, and metallic sequin details representing tribal African tattoos were accentuated with billowing Indian silhouettes.
She revisited the saree and updated the drapes via wrap dresses with cowl details on the back, and pleated saree maxis with sporty racerbacks. The range of batwing sleeve bomber jackets and hoodies, and draped long jackets with in-built pockets at once tied together the contrasting influence of glamour and comfort in one beautiful tribe.
Easy does it for Nishka Lulla. The young designer made a strong case for laid-back, everyday clothes with her Summer-Resort 2017 range of wrap skirts, drape jumpsuits, drop-waist dresses, waist-defining bustiers, sundowner shorts, minis, and evening gowns. She kept the silhouette flattering and clean, with restrained scallop tailoring details, bursts of 3D butterfly surface textures, and mogra motifs. Sliced between a black and white palette were summertime sparks of blues, pinks, and greens, allowing effortless transition from day-to-night clothing.
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