Day 4 Highlights From AIFW 2016
THE FIRST CUT DESIGNERS 2015
In collaboration with Elle magazine, The First Cut is an initiative launched to recognise promising fashion talent. The designers this year included Asa by Shreya Oza, Example by Moutushi & Rituraj, The Meraki Project by Sonali Pamnani, Lola by Suman B, Vitasta by Aditi Dhar (accessory) and Dvibhumi by Vyshnavi (jewellery).
Using local crafts and techniques from Africa and South-East Asia, Example’s Three Oceans was a line full of summery garments like robe jackets, bandhani pants, and dresses with pockets or kasavu. While Asa used a classic colour palette to experiment with dyes and create an easy exhibit of calf-length skirts and trousers teamed with tunics, The Meraki Project was an easy-going collection full of handwoven ikats and layered linens. Lola by Suman Bhat used hues like taupe, ash gold, burgundy and pink to create slit dresses cinched at the waist, jumpsuits and shimmery gowns. Showcasing Rhythm-Rawa-Riyaz, Dvibhumi used silver, brass and gold plating for intricate pieces with traditional motifs. Vitasta’s Desafinado was all about bags using leather as strips or fringes.
I loved the hooded dresses by Dhruv Kapoor. Neutrals like beige, grey and white made up the colour palette as Dhruv showcased knee-length dresses with capes, floor-length gowns and easy separates.
IKAI BY RAGINI AHUJA
If casual-meets-chic were to define a collection, it would be this. Using geometric chintz florals appliquéd on denim and suede, the collection comprised oversized lounge shirts, trucker jackets, trench and pleated pants, bomber jackets and more.
Hauterfly Pick: A black zippered bralet teamed with pleated pants and a peach-hued trench coat that had floral motifs and lace on the sleeve-ends.
A collection inspired by modernist architect Le Corbusier, compositions of Piet Mondrian and Japanese refinement and simplicity, Gursi Singh and Amrita Khanna used natural cotton fibres in newer blends and textures to create a pastel-hued, colour-blocked collection that spelled comfort.
Handloom cotton and linen were the main elements of this show – a relaxed collection with separates like tunics teamed with loose pants, tops, skirts, dresses.
A line made up of indigo and ecru that gradually shift to hues of pink and mustard, this collection was all about khadi. We love how Shani Himanshu and Mia Morikawa revisited deconstruction through their garments.
GEISHA DESIGNS BY PARAS & SHALINI
Despite the simplicity of the garments, I have to mention that each design had so much character. Sunshine yellow, dusty pinks and cool blues… the colours were soothing. Dresses, gowns and separates saw embellishments, cut-work, tatting, use of appliqué and handcrafted lace.
GAURI & NAINIKA
Inspired by Eliza Doolittle, Audrey Hepburn’s character from the classic My Fair Lady, Gauri & Nainika’s collection focussed on evening wear with easy fits and leggy silhouettes. Floor-length gowns and dresses had dramatic ruffles, high collars, and glossy pearls as detailing. The hues were a range of pastel colours with pops of red.
It was all about tie and dye at Malini Ramani’s show. A palette that ranged from earthy hues to greys, we saw jumpsuits ruched at the ankles, gowns cinched at the waist and fringed cover-ups.
PÉRO BY ANEETH ARORA
This show was a fave for me. Literally a girl-gang pyjama party, playful models had a ball of a time in garments that were chic yet comfortable. Hand-woven, stamped and embroidered linens and mulmul from Bengal to chanderi were used. Arora ensured using her signature selvedge edge on hems of dresses, cropped pants and full-length pinafores.
CUE BY ROHIT GANDHI + RAHUL KHANNA
Sophisticated, sharp cuts were the highlight of this collection. Starting off with shades of mint, the colour palette shifted to greys, corals and blacks. We saw shorts, culottes and ankle-length trousers, crop tops and deconstructed dresses. Showstopper Athiya Shetty closed the show wearing an intricate, shimmer gown.