LFW 2016: Archana Rao, Quirkbox, Sahil Kochhar
Archana Rao’s A Petticoat was a playful and effortless collection, showcasing the coming-of-age story of a fictional character called Lolita. The highlight of her show was the sheer innerwear, brought to the forefront in an ingenious manner. Details like small rosettes, crochet lace, tiny polka dots, and pinstripes on vintage petticoats added a touch of romanticism. Slip dresses were worn on oversized sheer shirts, rosette embroidered cropped tops were paired with scalloped voile skirts, and one-piece pinafore dresses paired with shoes with blooming flowers worked like a charm!
This season, Quirkbox took inspiration from all things French. Detailed and classic hand illustrations of vintage fashion objects and sewing machines depicting French couture, along with cross stitch as an embroidered and typographic illustration formed the depth of the label’s SS16 collection. There was a heavy emphasis on the idea of fashion as art, as well as humour and irony in spades thanks to the recurring “This Is Not Fashion” motif. The colour palette was inspired by vintage upholstery, and included shades of ecru, off-white, indigo, crimson and black. Breathable fabrics like cottons, linens, and cotton silks, were transposed on breezy silhouettes designed for summer travel.
As the name suggests, marble inlay art and marble cutting were the basis of Sahil Kochhar’s Sangamar-mar collection this season. The interpretation of the prachin kari technique — a way of cutting and fitting polished, coloured stones in marble to create images — was presented in a unique way. Fabrics were printed using textures of precious stones, cut into different shapes and then put together to form abstract floral motifs. There was plenty of geometric jali work patterns that were displayed through layered net cutwork fabrics and ivory 3D hand-cut embroidery. From organza button downs and skirts that were teamed with kaftans and roomy jackets, silhouettes had an androgynous edge it. Another aspect of his garments were floral motifs, a recurrent for the designer from his previous show Phool Mandi.