LFW 2016: The #IndiaCollective Show Was Desi Chic At It’s Modern Best
Day 2 of Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2016 witnessed a necessary transition in garment creation. One noticed a change in the fashion landscape — wearability and relevance now go hand-in-hand with eco-consciousness and sustainability. In fact, #IndiaCollective was a show that perfectly portrayed this merger. Five niche Indian labels took the onus of mixing organic fabrics and Indian crafts in ways best known to them — some contemporary, some ethnic, some both. The best part of this segment? From quality in design to the comprehension of textiles and a consumer perspective for wearability, we saw an apt meld in just one slot.
It was a monochrome sort of day for designer Nupur Goenka, who showcased her collection The Expedition for her label Aish. Using mirror work, batik and jamdani weaves, the garments made use of pashmina and khamir cotton. Easily defined as breezy and summer-friendly, it was the volume in the silhouette that played a major role in the garments. One saw geometric-printed kaftans with/without striped wide-legged trousers, drop waist dresses that were pleated at the skirt, dresses in flowy silhouettes and more. The highlight of the show though was a checked maxi dress that was stylishly teamed up with a long-sleeve, mirror-work long jacket. The collection seemed ideal for a woman who understands the need for smart fashion — one that gives her an easygoing vibe along with an edge over others.
2. Deepa Gurnani
Themed Live As One, Deepa Gurnani’s show cast aside models and replaced them with prominent faces from the Indian fashion sect — stylists Tanya Ghavri, Alia Al Rufai, Aastha Sharma, and Chandni Bahri, and bloggers Scherezade Shroff and Shereen Sikka, among others, took to the ramp for this show. The NYC-based brand of Deepa and Jay Lakhani, which is known to team the intricateness of Indian embroidery with a Western sensibility, displayed neckpieces, earrings and hair accessories. Their handmade accessory line called Oblivion was all about deconstructed jewellery that was inspired by the richness of the earth and desert. Using brass and antique metal as the base, one saw an addition of pom poms (the it-accessory for this season) and crystals. There were gilded feather pieces too. Another set saw the use of semi-precious stones with embroidered jewels. Hair accessories, on the other hand, were crystallised statements with a touch of black and gold. Though luxe in approach, the pieces showcased in this collection were highly eclectic and most importantly wearable.
Inspired by the Rabari tribe, Chinar Farooqui’s Rebari maintained a fashion equilibrium by using handloom fabrics to create contemporary and modern attires. Working a monochromatic colour scheme, the designer, whose vivid understanding of textiles works in her favour, used organic cotton to create a Western-inspired easy wear. Think peasant tops with cropped trousers, midis teamed with skirts, button-downs with flowy palazzos and summer jackets, maxi dresses, choga shirts and more, all summer-friendly and minimalist, that was how the collection went on. A heavy influence of Kutch was noticed here — one saw a modern rendition of the kedia top.
In a show titled Boba, masked models strutted down the stage to display a uniform collection of empire-line smocks paired with shirts (ones that were knotted at the back). Taking inspiration from air, water and sky, designers Santanu Das and Chirag Gandhi used handwoven indigo-dyed natural yarns for their line. Using fabrics like muslin, fine cotton, linen, silk and jamdani, the vocabulary of these clothes was a combination of minimalist and fluid.
5. Nor Black Nor White
Three distinct fabrics made up 100% Pure Love — clamp dyed silks from Kutch, vibrant cotton checks from Kerala and striking Ikats from Andhra Pradesh. From flared dresses to floppy jackets, loose tunics and multi-coloured kaftans, this was one diverse range for both genders. I particularly liked the hint of athleisure to these designs — it wasn’t really in-your-face but bordered closely around the trend. Some of the creations saw designers Amrit Kumar and Mriga Kapadiya add a timely touch of the 90s, and that was a refreshing change.